To North Island

Lewis Pass Reflecting Lake

In improving weather we made our way back across the northern end of South Island, finding some beautiful locations to camp, and meeting some interesting people en route. After two days sheltering in a small chalet while it rained for 48 hours we headed towards the Lewis Pass, one of the more northerly passes across the main spine of mountains which runs the length of South Island. This area is a mining area with old coal and gold mines. Some early arrivals at a campsite at the end of a 15km dirt road turned out to be current day gold prospectors.


Lake Tennyson Campsite

Lake Tennyson

Despite the area being a National Park the public are allowed to pan for gold in the streams as long as they only use hand tools. Three men arrived and we chatted for a while before they set off up stream to their preferred site. One seemed to live full time at the site, and the other two come up most weekends and sometimes mid week to try their luck. By all accounts they claim to find a reasonable amount - real characters. After visiting a nearby ghost gold mining town we stayed in Reefton, the first town in New Zealand to have mains electricity.
Whilst the Lewis Pass is not as high or spectacular as Arthurs Pass it provided a beautiful view of the snow covered mountains in the reflecting lake. the town of Hanmer is famed for its hot springs, but until we arrived did not realise there were miles of accessible dirt roads leading off into the mountains behind.

Recent snowfall had coated the mountains but we drove up in beautiful sunshine and spent the following three days climbing some of the easier peaks including Mount Isabelle, and camping by the most beautiful and remote Lake Tennyson. Such a peaceful and awe inspiring location.



View from Mount Isabelle

Kaikora - where the mountians meet the sea

Raised coast at Kaikora

Kaikora on the eastern coast is a haven for wildlife as it sits on a small bay between snow covered mountains and the sea and an ocean trench runs very close to the coast here. In 2016 they suffered a large earthquake which cut off the town by road for a month due to huge landslides along the coast, and also raised the shoreline by around 5m over a 110 km length. Quite awesome.

Wandering Albatross

Dusky Dolphin

Having missed the albatross on Otago peninsula we took a boat trip out to the ocean trench and had fabulous views of some of the larger ocean going sea birds including the magnificent wandering albatross with a wing span of over 3 metres. The boat captain even spotted a pod of dusky dolpin and made a detour for us to get closer. The dolphin were leaping high out of the water in what is apparently a mating ritual, but quite spectacular.
From Kaikora we made our way north to the Marlborough Sounds where we relaxed for a few days enjoying the remote and inaccessible deeply indented coastline. This relatively small area is so indented it contains around 20% of the whole coastline of New Zealand.

Marlborough Sounds

North coast beach

With only a few weeks till we leave we sadly left South Island and crossed back to the North Island on a  beautiful calm afternoon, enjoying the long cruise from Picton through the tree covered sounds.

 

Leaving South Island

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Furthest South

Christchurch Temporary Cathedral

Rebuilding is evident everywhere in Christchurch following the devastating earthquakes a few years ago. Many old building fronts are supported by scaffolding and some interesting new buildings have been constructed, not least the Temporary Cathedral. Damage to the old cathedral made it impossible to use and while deciding to do with the old building a startling new cathedral was constructed using lightweight aluminium reinforced cardboard tubes with multi layered polycarbonate covering. It is very sobering talking to people who lived there and the anxiety they experience about further earthquakes. One couple described how they had to have their house reconstructed twice.

Mount Sunday - Edoras in Lord of the Rings

South of Christchurch we headed back to the mountains stopping at the beautiful remote Mount Sunday, the location of Edoras in Lord of the Rings.

Mount Cook

Following the mountains further south we spent a fantastic clear day walking some of the tracks round Mount Cook - the highest peak in New Zealand. Flowing from the ice field round Mount Cook is the Tasman Glacier, which is retreating at around 6m per day - nearly 2kms per year, so the end of the glacier has retreated almost out of sight of the viewing location. 
A week in an apartment in Wanaka gave us  break from the van and we enjoyed the extra space and comfort.

Fogbow at campsite above Milford Sound

Leaving Wanaka we headed to Milford Sound, camping at the top of the valley before dropping down to the sound where we were treated to a perfect calm day with beautiful reflections. Inquisitive Kea started exploring our van at one of the car parks. These mountain parrots are renowned for their ability to pull off wiper blades and window seals, so after being entertained by them we made sure to move elsewhere before parking for a walk into the mountains where we were accompanied by the sound of avalanches as the temperature rose.

Milford Sound

Roaring Forties at Slope Point

After visiting Slope Point - the most southerly point of NZ South Island and experiencing the roaring 40's we took the ferry to Stewart Island. With a 4m cross swell running it was an exciting crossing.
Stewart Island to the south of South Island contains a small and quiet community focussed on fishing and tourism. Ulva Island, located in an inlet of Stewart Island is one of the few rodent and mammal free islands around, enabling local birdlife to prosper. In beautiful weather we were lucky to see both Kaka and the elusive saddleback, and on a walk round the village around midnight even a kiwi. This is the furthest south we have been so far.

Oban on Stewart Island

Back on the South Island we have made our way round the south east coast, which is relatively unvisited, but hosts a number of breeding colonies of the rare yellow eyed penguins as well as seals and sea lion, and some beautiful coastal scenery with cliffs, caves and sea arches.

Fossilised wood

Dunedin is one of the nicest cities of New Zealand  having a lot of older buildings round the harbour and being surrounded by beautiful hilly countryside and coast.

Sea Arch at Tunnel Beach

Several days on the nearby Otago peninsula allowed us to appreciate the peace and beauty of this corner of New Zealand, but sadly it is the wrong time of year to see Royal Albatross at the nearby colony.

Tunnel Beach

The last week has been spent crossing back through the mountains to the west coast where we have been fortunate to see several rare Fjordland penguins. With the weather set to deteriorate we headed to the Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers which flow down from the west of the Mount Cook icefield. The same story as on the east of the mountains, the glaciers are retreating, though not at such a rate.
A fantastic few weeks with such a variety, mountains, beautiful coasts and interesting and rare wildlife. 
   

Waitaki Boulders

 

Fur Seal

 

Inquisitive kaka

Inquisitive Kea



Saddlebird

 





Mollymawk Albatross

 

 

Yellow eyed Penguin

Yellow eyed penguin

Sea Lion