Driving Round the World: November 2019

Hobas Meteorite

After a couple of relaxing days in Tsumeb, we also had a fractured pipe on the sir-conditioning fixed, we made our way south calling at the Hoab Meteorite. This 60 tonne rectangular block of iron / nickel is the largest meteorite found, and is especially unusual in having flat faces, and there being no evidence of an impact crater. It is believed that 80,000 years ago it entered the earth's atmosphere at a very shallow angle, so reached a relatively low terminal velocity which would have prevented it from creating a huge impact crater, and probably accounts for the angular shape.

Zambezi Campsite in Caprivi Strip

Traditional mud rondavels in Caprici

From Grootfontein we headed east to the Caprivi strip. This region of Namibia is much less developed than other areas, with traditional villages of thatched mud rondavels scattered along the road. Large areas of the strip have been designated as Game Reserves, and the remains of military camps from the 1970's are relatively common. Either side of the Okavango River lies Mahango Game Reserve. On a whim we drove into the reserve one afternoon to find a wealth of game, in fact most of the species found further south in the more touristy Okavango Delta, so it was a pleasant surprise to come across sable antelope, buffalo, and eland as well as the more common impala, elephant and warthog.

Kwando River campsite in Mudumu NP

There are some lovely campsites situated on the banks of the Zambezi and Kwando Rivers and we spent several nights moving between beautiful campsites. Mudumu National Park lies along the Kwando River and despite the challenge of some deep sand we spent a couple of nights on the river front, and were rewarded with the sight of hundreds of elephant and rowan antelope coming down to drink, along with zebra and lechwe and the resident hippos.

Welcome thunderstorms

The lack of rain through Namibia and Botswana has driven a lot of game north resulting in large numbers. As the river provides the only water for the animals they tend to stay relatively near, so great care had to be taken driving the track parallel to the river as there were often herds of elephant either crossing or walking along the track. each afternoon dramatic thunderstorms would develop and we often watched them pass to the east of us, though we did catch the edge of one.
Having heard from several travellers that Botswana is suffering a severe drought and that many of the animals are either suffering or have migrated north we decided to go straight to Zambia so crossed the border at Katima and drove along to Livingstone.

Dry Zambian side of Victoria Falls

Despite Zambia and Zimbabwe having established a special visa which allows multi entry between the countries we could not get one at Katima, but they are available at the border in Livingstone. We ended up exiting Zambia, walking across the Victoria Falls bridge to Zimbabwe, getting the special Kaza Visa and immediately exiting Zimbabwe and re-entering Zambia. When crossing the bridge you get a view of the Zambian side of the Falls, and can see down into the river gorge where there is normally rafting. The river is so low there is no water on the Zambian side of the falls and the river is far too low for rafting.
Leaving Livingstone we drove east to Chirundu, down on the Zambezi, where it was extraordinarily hot, and crossed into Zimbabwe. The border formalities were very quick and we found ourselves driving on a virtually deserted road through an increasing number of baobabs before turning off along the 70km dirt road to Mana Pools. With temperatures well into the 40's it was uncomfortably hot, but we were fortunate to get a campsite right on the river front, so could benefit from any breeze.

Camping by Zambezi at Mana Pools

The drought is severely affecting Mana Pools. All the pools have dried up, and there is no grazing at all. So severe in fact that they are bringing in tons of hay and distributing it along some of the safari tracks in an effort to keep the grazing animals alive. Despite this there are an amazing number of animals, but again they are concentrated near the river as it is the only place to get water.
We spent two days exploring the tracks with some fantastic animal encounters, especially the elephant which walk through the campsite and stand on their hind legs to feed, with the highlight being a pack of African wild or painted dogs. We spent an hour or more one afternoon watching them as they slept in the shade, then saw them return the following morning from their hunting when they were wildly playful, chasing each other through pools of water and mock fighting. One pair were so involved with their play they almost ran into Sue.

Kariba Dam

It was a relief to find some cooler temperatures as we left Mana Pools and drove to Kariba where we planned to cross back into Zambia. The lake is pretty low, with a relatively small dam holding back a lake 200kms long and 20kms wide, it looks much like an inland sea. Unfortunately the Zambian immigration would not accept the Kaza Visa, so we drove back round to Chirundu where there was no problem.
After a brief stop in Lusaka, as Sue needed to return to the UK, it seemed the rains were at last arriving. 12 hours of rain overnight was very refreshing before Ed headed east to South Luangwa National Park. Dropping down into the Luangwa Valley was like descending into a blaze of bright green, with new foliage on all the trees, and mangoes falling on the ground.

Leopard in South Luangwa

river front campsite at the Wildlife Camp gave lovely views across the very low Luangwa River to the park, with a chorus of hippo. Elephant, hippo, monkeys and baboon were regular visitors to the camp, but were no trouble. South Luangwa is noted for its density of wildlife, especially its leopard, and over a couple of days I was treated to many special moments, watching lion finishing eating a newly killed buffalo, small family groups of elephant, many with very young babies, and hundreds of baby impala. The highlight was finding leopard, in the daytime resting in a the branch of a tree, but in late afternoon descending to go hunting.
Needing to be in Johannesburg for mid December I am now planning to head back to Livingstone and then down through Zimbabwe to South Africa.
Below are various photos of some of the animals we have been privileged to see.