Driving Round the World: Goodbye to the Sub-Continent

Leaving the Swat Valley

The beautiful Swat Valley

Swat Valley is associated with the insurgence of the Taliban who took temporary control in 2007, but is now a peaceful fertile agricultural area growing lots of fruit and vegetables for the markets of Islamabad and Peshawar. This beautiful valley is now a base for the re-assembly of cars smuggled in from Afghanistan on mules and camels to avoid Pakistan's high import duties but which can be openly used in the semi autonomous northern states. Whole towns seem to be full of car parts for any vehicle.

Takht e Bhai Monastery

However the day we were there the monsoon was in full swing at the top of the valley, so we headed south away from the rain to Takht e Bhai - the site of a first century Buddhist monastery complex where students were taught. The remains, scattered over a ridge command wide views over the plains and are believed to be representative of the Buddhist architecture of the time. A few locals were visiting, but we had an armed guard, whether to protect us or the ruins we were unsure.

Greek city of Sirkap

Nearby Taxila was a major town by the Indus and straddling the major route trade from the Khyber Pass east to India. The area had been occupied for millennia with evidence of Buddhist towns dating from the 5th century BC. A superb collection of artefacts is displayed in the museum, ranging from statues to arms and coins from many countries. Part of the Taxila complex is the ancient town of Sirkap, founded in 180BC by the Greek invader Demetrius and was a fortified by massive walls with a planned grid of streets and temples, some exhibiting typical Greek Corinthian columns, unusual for this part of the world.

Replacing differential gasket

After a day in Islamabad where we needed to get the front differential gasket replaced, amazingly quick and professional work by the team at Auto Club, we headed to the Indian border, as a state of emergency had just been declared in Kashmir. Crossing back to India we again passed through the gate where the border ceremony takes place and were soon in Amritsar.

Pakistan / India Border gate

There are two iconic places in Amritsar, Jallianwala Bagh - where General Dyer ordered his troops to fire on unarmed locals celebrating their New Year in the gardens, massacring hundreds, and starting the call for independence from Britain. A memorial stands in the garden and the bullet scarred walls have been retained.
Just nearby is the famous Golden Temple - the most holy site for Sikhs and an astonishing place.

Monument to those killed in the
struggle for independence

Despite the thousands of visitors and pilgrims who visit every day there is an air of respect, and a very efficient and unobtrusive process for managing the visitors, from around 15 windows where you can leave your shoes safely with staff, to the mass free feeding of pilgrims as they visit.

Golden Temple Amritsar

There seems to be a permanent queue along the causeway to the temple which is very ornate.

The evening was spent attending the extraordinary border closing ceremony, which has become a major attraction. The crowd on the Indian side starts arriving two or more hours before the ceremony filling the huge stands which have been constructed. Loud lively music is played and despite the heat the crowds dance, sing and wave flags.

Indian soldier at border ceremony

This is then orchestrated by a military cheer leader who encourages the crowd into ever louder cheering with women invited to parade flags and dance in the centre - all very Bollywood. The activity on the Pakistani side is rather more subdued with fewer visitors. The ceremony itself is also extraordinary with soldiers in incongruous uniforms from each country marching towards each other with a high kick before making aggressive gestures in a face off. Finally both flags are carefully lowered in exact timing with each other, before a handshake and the gates are slammed. - All rather strange.

With less than a week until we load the car in Mumbai we headed south along the well made and fast road, passing Delhi and arriving at Jaipur. The incredible Amber Fort is huge, with walls stretching up and across the nearby hills, looking just like the Great wall of China.

Amber fort at Jaipur

Ornate halls and chambers can be explored at will, with numerous passageways and staircases available to explore. It would be easy to spend a day following all the possible passageways, but with limited time we restricted ourselves to the main areas. The sumptuous tilework and huge proportions make you realise the wealth and power of the Maharajahs.

Worlds largest stone sundial at Jantar Mantar - Jaipur

Jaipur itself is having a metro system constructed so the centre is somewhat disturbed, but the pink city boasts some splendid moghul architecture, especially down some of the back lanes where dilapidated houses often have a very ornate doorway, or lovely balcony.
One of the more unusual places is the Jantar Mantar collection of huge astronomical instruments constructed in the 18th century by a keen Indian astronomer and boasts the worlds largest stone sun dial. Quite extraordinary. Nineteen sets of instruments have been constructed to predict the movement of celestial bodies in each of three coordinate systems.

Udaipur Palace

Our final stop en route to Mumbai was Udaipur where under drizzly skies we visited the huge palace which again has numerous highly decorated rooms and some wonderful architecture, but on a vast scale, with the courtyards separated by low and twisting passageways.